Staffan Terje

Landy Tang — Mon, 21 May 2007 07:00:00 GMT

The chef-owner of one of the newest and hottest Italian restaurants in San Francisco is from Sweden! Chef Terje discovered a love of food at an early age and worked for several years in Sweden and Europe before coming to America. In 1986 he moved to Napa where he became part of the original Piatti where he learned of the treasure trove of fresh produce and meats available to him. And for a seven year stint he was at Scala’s and also cooked at the James Beard house in New York City. One of the more interesting things is that he has created a curing room to make salumi at Perbacco.

Chefwatch: Where are you originally from?
Terje: Nykoping (60 miles south of Stockholm), Sweden

Chefwatch: How did you get started cooking?
Terje: I started in the restaurant business as a dishwasher / prep cook during a summer break between 7th and 8th grade. I needed money so I could buy a bass guitar and an amplifier. I played in punk rock band. At least I thought I played. Plus I needed money for a concert (the Clash). I started cooking (and being interested in cooking) a few years earlier. But the dishwashing job set it off for me. Watching the cooks use their knives and flipping things in pans was really cool. And loving food and eating (and drinking) since before I could walk.

Chefwatch: Who or what is your main culinary inspiration?
Terje: My inspirations as far as people are many. Both people that I have and haven’t worked with. It is hard to say. 100’s of other chefs. It is easier to be inspired by people you don’t work with when it comes to food. If you eat their food or read their cookbooks, you get purity. No baggage. I think ingredients inspire me more.

Chefwatch: How does that translate into what you are doing now?
Terje: The older I get, the more restraint I use. Less ingredients. Less messing around.

Chefwatch: You must have dreamt about your restaurant before you opened it. How does the reality match up with the dream that you had?
Terje: Every job I’ve had I’ve approached as being an owner and taking ownership. But when you work for someone else there is always a safety net. Someone else is the owner and they have to deal with it (bad and good) in the end. If things go south you can always leave and find another job. But now there is no “someone else”. There is only you and there is no quitting. Then on the other hand, there is no better feeling when things go right and you can actually take credit for your accomplishments and not have to share.

Chefwatch: What keeps you going day after day and keeps you fresh?
Terje: Our guests, seeing them coming back, great ingredients, great colleagues, great employees. Meeting other chefs at the farmers market on Saturdays. I’m doing what I love to do.

Chefwatch: What is your favorite ingredient?
Terje: Depends on the season, I hate fresh tomatoes in January, but love them in August. But since a lot of my time is spent making salumi these days, pork and piggy things peak my interest. Or anything that has to be cured or preserved. It is great feeling tasting something that you started making 4 months ago taste great.

Chefwatch: What is the most memorable meal you’ve ever created?
Terje: Cooking at James Beard House. It was hard work and it came out really good.

Chefwatch: What is the most memorable meal you’ve ever eaten?
Terje: So far, the French Laundry. I tend to shy away from restaurants like that. It was very overwhelming, but very good.

Chefwatch: Who is your favorite chef or place to eat?
Terje: So many. When I go out I tend to go to places where I know I am going to have a good meal. When I want to treat myself I like to go to Quince. Michael Tusk is a fantastic chef.

Chefwatch: What was the most challenging time in your career?
Terje: At on point I took a job that turned out to be the wrong choice at the time. But in retrospect, I wouldn’t be here today if I wouldn’t have taken that job. It all works out in the end

Chefwatch: If money, time and manpower were no object what menu would you create?
Terje: I would still cook something very humble. If I would have been asked this question when I was 20-25, I probably would told you about all the luxury ingredients that I would have used. Caviar, foie gras, veal, Dover sole, turbot, lobster etc. Now I would probably braise some shortribs or roast a pork shoulder. Bake a whole fish in salt and drizzle with really good olive oil. Simple. Get some good wine and some good cheese on the table.

Chefwatch: What one piece of advice would you give to cooks who are just starting out that you wish somebody had told you?
Terje: Shut up and keep your eyes open. Gather as much information and learn as much as you can. Don’t try to be creative right away. Taste every ingredient before you cook it. Understand the recipe or dish. Find out the roots of what you are cooking. Don’t try to work for the chefs that have TV programs or other engagements. Find an old school chef that has lot of experience. Learn from someone that spends their days at their restaurant. Practice your skills constantly. Kind of like “wax on, wax off”.

Chefwatch: What piece of advice would you give to home cooks out there?
Terje: Don’t try to cook like a professional chef. Cook within your limits and expand those limits as you learn. Cook often. That’s how you become a good cook. And cook for and together with your kids. Don’t make everything too convenient. Sharing a meal should include the preparation too.

Chefwatch: Any future plans that you would like to share with us?
Terje: Watch out.

5 hour Pork Sugo

Landy Tang — Mon, 21 May 2007 07:00:00 GMT

Serves 8-10 Ingredients: 1 carrot, trimmed 1 onion, peeled 4 stalks celery 2-3 juniper berries 1 allspice berry 2 cloves 2 peppercorns 4 ounces dry porcini mushrooms, soaked in 1 quart water, liquid strained and reserved ¼ cup olive oil 2 pounds ground pork Salt and pepper to taste 1 bottle red wine, such as Barbera or Dolcetto 1 quart low-sodium beef broth 1 tablespoon rosemary leaves, finely chopped 1 tablespoon thyme leaves, finely chopped 1 tablespoon sage leaves, finely chopped 1 bay leaf 1 cup crushed tomato 1 cup cream 1 ¼ to 1 ½ pounds fresh pasta such as tagliatelle, fettucine, papparadelle or tajarin, or dried short pasta such as rigatoni or penne Butter, to finish Parmesan cheese, to serve 1. Chop carrot, onion, celery and mushrooms in a food processor. 2. In a spice grinder, or mortar and pestle, grind juniper, allspice, cloves and pepper. 3. In a large Dutch oven, sweat vegetables and mushrooms in olive oil over medium heat until they become soft, 5 to 7 minutes, then add the pork, stirring until cooked through. Season with salt and pepper. 4. Add wine, broth, mushroom liquid, herbs and spices. Bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and reduce by half for 1 to 1 ½ hours. 5. Add tomatoes and simmer on very low heat for 5 hours. 6. Add cream and allow sauce to simmer gently until it has emulsified, about 20 minutes. (If freezing the sauce, wait to add the cream until just before serving the pasta). 7. Boil the pasta in well-salted water. If using fresh pasta, toss the pasta in butter and season it well with salt and pepper. Then serve immediately in shallow bowls, topped with 1/3 to ½ cup of sauce. If using short pasta, toss the pasta in the sauce with some butter and serve immediately in shallow bowls. Garnish with fresh Parmesan cheese.

Staffan Terje from ChefWatch

Staffan Terje

5 hour Pork Sugo